Mozartstadt Prague

Mozartstadt. City of Mozart. A more than appropriate title for the Bohemian capital of Prague. During the three years that I've authored the Chronicles, I've often mentioned Prague's centricity to the Mozart biography. The citizens of Prague held the first signifcant memorial service for Mozart, they were the first to erect a memorial in his honor in 1837 and Czech native Franz Xaver Niemetschek wrote one of the earliest biographical accounts of the composer in 1797. Niemetschek wrote, "The Bohemians are proud that he recognized and honored their good taste with so noble a work (Don Giovanni), coming from the depths of his genius." The photo above was taken during my visit to the Villa Bertramka, the home of Mozart's friends and fellow musicians Franz and Josepha Duschek, where Mozart stayed as a guest. "Meine Prager verstehen mich," Mozart exclaimed. "My Praguers understand me."

One week ago on 16 June, I departed the beloved city and other loyal devotees with whom I had been on a level of professional and personal exchange in the good name of Mozart. And without hesitation, I'll simply gush! The conference delivered brilliant scholarship, exquisite dining (with too many courses to mention!), delightful concerts and redolent visits to Mozart landmarks. MSA President Kathryn Libin surpassed all expectations with her instigation of this grand event and I'm incredibly grateful to her for giving me the opportunity to attend.

So, da capo! (from the beginning!) On 8 June, after a restless red-eye flight across the Atlantic, I found myself enveloped in a magical morning in Prague. Unable to take a much-needed nap at my friend Zuzana's flat due to overwhelming excitement, I ventured out into the city. I spent most of my afternoon strolling on the 13th Century Charles Bridge where I took in the stunning cityscape and the language of musicians. It would be quite easy to spend several days there! I took pictures and curiously observed the passersby. The 17th Century Crucifix and Calvary on the bridge drew my undivided attention in regards to my faith and the Mozart history. These were overwhelming moments. I reflected on my purpose, my devotion, the people in my life who have supported my passion, and was caught up in tears and poetic nuance...

The crucifix where you pondered, is now where I wander. Your darkness, my light, in my heart your music has sight. With tears in my eyes as you so often penned, how lovely it is to meet you again.

Shortly after these renderings of poetry, I met my friend Ruediger Mandry from Dresden. After a bit of walking and browsing in a music shop, we had dinner in the Old Town Square and attended a performance of Mozart's "Le Nozze di Figaro" at the Estates Theater, where Mozart himself conducted the opera. It was certainly a highlight of my week! The photo below was taken in the theater following the performance that evening.

Speaking of highlights, it's best if I adhere to this format, as it would take me forever and a day to describe the entirety of my trip! As I've been to Prague twice before, I'd already seen the most significant Mozart haunts, but this time I saw some of them from a different perspective and of course there were new additions! Highlights included attending a service at the Strahov Monastery to listen to the organ that Mozart improvised on in 1787, seeing manuscripts in the Beethoven Room at the Lobkowitz Palace, which included Mozart's arrangement of Handel's "Messiah" in his own hand, visiting the Czech Museum of Music and seeing a basset horn from 1791 which is significant for Mozart's writing for this instrument in his opera "La Clemenza di Tito" which premiered in Prague in 1791 and visiting the St. Nicholas Cathedral in Lesser Town where Mozart's memorial service was held on 14 December, 1791 to a congregation of 4,000 Czech citizens.

Another noteworthy adventure was my trip to the Kanzelsberger music shop, where I discovered the first Prague edition of a Mozart sonata for four hands. It did not have a KV number or a date, but I was permitted to take a few photos of the exterior and score, so I was able to later identify it as KV 521, Sonate in C für Klavier zu vier Händen (Sonata in C for Keyboard for Four Hands) which dates from 29 May, 1797. At the moment, I'm researching the date of the Prague edition. This photo was taken holding the sonata in question!

Scholarly discussions aside, the conference was simply about people! I had the opportunity to meet scholars from Denmark, Austria, Great Britain, Ireland, Italy, North America and the Czech Republic. My dialogue with musicologists, theater scholars, fortepiano experts and artists offered reassurance for my chosen path. The biggest surprise was a visit by Prince William and Princess Alexandra Lobkowitz, descendants of Mozart's aristocratic patrons. This occasion also granted yet another visit with a dear friend, Zuzana, who is so fortunate to be a native of this unparalleled city. It was through her invitation that I came to know Prague for the first time in 2004 and she's also responsible for consequent visits which I hope will continue! Děkuji, Zuzana! And never to be forgotten, there were several people not present at the conference who encouraged my travel to Prague and I certainly carried their loving support in my luggage! Specifically, my family and beloved friend, Stephanie Cowell.

When on a pilgrimmage such as this one, where our aim is in part to absorb as much as possible that still exists from Mozart's world, a certain emptiness surfaces sooner or later with the realization that no matter hard we try, we'll never be able to touch him, talk to him, or hear his music as he intended it to be heard. There's so much we'll never know and this notion leaves a void, a stark dissatisfaction. However, the advantage for me personally is the resulting encouragement and inquisitiveness that drives my passion onward in hope of further musicological discovery. Hours after writing the previous little poem, and shortly before the performance of "Figaro," I was yet again encouraged to take up my pen and dash a little something on paper...

The streets you once knew, voice their story of you,

but you are not here, and soon the clouds seem shear.

Where to find you? Within these walls from time?

No, no, in the stave, beyond masonry and grave.

Let it be known to all, who seek a tangible story,

that you are not here, but singing God's glory.

Sherry